December 2010 Newsletter©

Fall Bulbs

After Thanksgiving is the time to plant fall bulbs.  They show up in garden centers in September, and for the best selection, you should buy them early and store them.  But if you don’t have them yet, we still have a pretty good selection.                                                                              Most bulbs prefer full sun and are fairly tolerant of poor soil, but all need good drainage.  You can fertilize new bulbs at planting with a slow release or organic fertilizer but use caution and do not allow the fertilizer to come in direct contact with the bulb.  The best way to fertilize established bulbs is to spray feed them with a water soluble fertilizer a couple of times while the foliage is actively growing.  Because bulbs are deep, very little surface applied fertilizer gets to the bulb.  Other plants and microbes gobble it up, so spray feeding is more beneficial to the bulb.

Tulips (Genus Tulipa, Family Liliaceae)

Tulips are annuals here. Plant 100 tulip bulbs and you are lucky if a dozen return. We have too much “hot” and not enough “cold” for tulips.  The “not enough cold” is the reason we recommend buying the bulbs early and storing them in the refrigerator until after Thanksgiving.  Tulips need 12- 14 weeks of continuous “cold” to perform at their best and get uniform stem length.  Less than that and you get irregular flower height and sometimes no flower.  The bulbs should be in a paper sack (no plastic) and you should not have ripening fruit in the same refrigerator.  As fruit ripens it releases ethylene gas which stimulates some plants to flower, but it can destroy the flower bud deep inside a tulip bulb.  Flower size is directly proportional to bulb size.  The larger the bulb, the larger the flower.  If you are going to the trouble of planting a mass of tulips, plant the largest bulb you can find.  The rewards are worth it.                                                                                              Tulips come in a wide variety of shapes and colors to choose from, but pay attention to whether they are early, mid or late bloomers.  By planting some of each you can extend your bloom time up to 6 weeks or so.  If you are stuck on one variety, you can extend you bloom season by planting in layers.  Plant the deepest layer with the base of the bulb at 8”, cover it with soil and then place another layer of bulbs on top.  The lower layer will bloom 7-14 days later than the top layer.  Layered planting is a great idea for bulbs in containers.  Just one layer?  Then plant tulips with the base of the bulb at 6” deep in full sun.                                                                                                       Can you dig the bulbs and save them?  Yes, but the flowers are usually much smaller the second year.  I’d plant new bulbs but if you must, dig them after the foliage has yellowed.  Remove as much soil as you can and lay them out to dry for a couple of days.  Then dust the bulbs with a bulb fungicide or sulfur dust to prevent rot.  Store them in trays or a nylon net bag in a cool dry location. In late September, put them in the refrigerator and then plant again after Thanksgiving.

Narcissus (Jonquils, Buttercups, Daffodils – Genus Narcissus, Family Amaryllidaceae)

Narcissus bulbs do very well in the Mid South.  In fact, many varieties need to be lifted and separated at least every 5 years.  The bulbs often pile up on top of each other which results in many bulbs not blooming.  Choosing bulbs can be difficult because of all the variations in height, the color combinations of the petals and cup or the flower shape.  “Isn’t that one cool?”…has caused me to add a few every year.                                                                                             Most Narcissus look best in full sun (pinks should be grown in some shade); however you often see them naturalized in a woodland garden.  The foliage comes up in late fall when there’s little foliage left on the trees, so for several months they are exposed to nearly full sun.  When the woodland garden starts to become shady again, the foliage is beginning to yellow off and it’s had plenty of time to rebuild the bulb.                                                                                                                                 If you are planting masses of bulbs in a garden, smaller bulbs may suffice, but if it’s a focal point, plant the largest bulb you can find.  Just like tulips, the bigger the bulb, the larger the flower.  For traditional large cup Narcissus, plant the base of the bulb at 6” depth.  For smaller specie varieties, plant the base of the bulb at 2½ times the height of the bulb (a 1” bulb should be planted 2½” deep).                                                                                                                                       This time of year, Paperwhite Narcissus are available for forcing.  They are very fragrant and have been pre-chilled so they are ready for planting in soil or more often in bowls of gravel.  When grown in gravel, water should just touch the base of the bulb, no higher. It takes 5-6 weeks to bring them into bloom.  You can speed the process up a little by giving them a little gentle bottom heat.  Low light conditions often cause the stems to elongate causing them to flop over.  You can help prevent this by adding a little alcohol to the water.  Start adding alcohol when the plants are around 2” tall.  The alcohol content needs to be around 5%.  At 10%, the bulbs can be damaged.  You can use any hard liquor (no beer or wine) or rubbing alcohol.  To determine how much you need to add, divide the percentage of alcohol by 5 and subtract 1 to give you parts of water to alcohol.  Liquor that is 100 proof is 50% alcohol.  So 50 divided by 5 is 10, subtract 1 = 9 parts water to 1 part alcohol. Alcohol can reduce the stem height by a third or more without affecting the flowers. 

Hyacinths – (Genus Hyacinthia, Family Liliaceae)

Hyacinth bulbs will normally bloom for 5 years or more once planted.  Over time, the flower spike gets a little smaller until only foliage returns, so plant a few every year to enjoy the fragrance.  Hyacinths should be planted with the base of the bulb at 6”.  Handle them with gloves. Oils in the skin of the bulb cause skin irritation (itching) in many people.

Tulips, narcissus and hyacinths are the most often planted fall bulbs, but there are many other “minor bulbs” that are worth a place in the garden.

Alliums – (Genus Allium, Family Amaryllidaceae)

These are ‘onions”.  They produce a spherical ball of flowers atop a single stem.  Colors include white, blue, purple and yellow and flower heights vary from 12” tall to 48” tall. 

Anemones – (Genus Anemone, Family Ranunculaceae)

Anemones should be planted in cold ground, January is probably best.  They prefer a sandy, well drained soil, plant them about 2” deep and plan on replacing them every year.

Camassia – (Genus Camassia, Family Liliaceae)

Camassia produce spikes of lavender to purple flowers to 36” tall.  This is a good bulb near ponds or anywhere there is ample summer moisture.  Looks best if planted in some shade and protected from the hottest afternoon sun. 

Chionodoxa – (Glory of the Snow – Genus Chionodoxa, Family Liliaceae)

This is one of the earliest spring bulbs to bloom.  Most species produce 10-12” spikes of lavender or blue star-like flowers, 10-15 flowers per stem.  They do not tolerate drought well, so they should be planted 3” deep in moist, well drained soil.

Crocus – (Genus Crocus, Family Iridaceae)

Crocus bulbs are good for the garden edge because most only grow to 3” tall.  Flowers have six petals and colors include, white, creamy yellow, yellow, orange, pink, lavender, purple and striped white/purple. They bloom very early, often in the snow and should be planted about 3” deep.  I like to plant tulips in a container with a layer of crocus on top for early color.

Fritillaria – (Crown Imperial - Genus Fritillaria, Family Liliaceae)

Fritillaria need to be planted as soon as you get them.  The bulbs dehydrate rather quickly, so it’s important to get them in ground as soon as possible.  Most prefer full sun but a few like F. meleagris, which has a very unique nodding checkered flower, are woodland species.  F. imperialis produces a 3-4’ flower spike topped with narrow foliage and under which hang yellow, red or orange bell shaped flowers.  This bulb has a “skunk-like” smell and is said to repel moles and voles.  Most are large bulbs that should be planted at 8” deep.  For smaller bulbs the 2½ times rule that we talked about above applies.

Galanthus – (Snowdrop – Genus Galanthus, Family Amaryllidaceae)

Galanthus produces a single white nodding flower per stem but it naturalizes and forms large clumps that are quite showy.  It prefers sun but will bloom in some shade.  Bulbs should be planted about 3” deep and if you need to divide and separate, they move best right after the flower fades while you still have foliage.  Foliage grows to around 8” tall, flower spikes to 12”.

Leucojum – (Snowflake – Genus Leucojum, Family Amaryllidaceae)

Leucojum produce a flower spike with 1-8 bell shaped white flowers depending on the specie.   Each petal has a green spot near the end. This is one of my favorite minor bulbs because it forms clumps quickly that can have hundreds of flowers.  L. aestivum (Summer Snowflake) grows to about 12” tall and blooms in late spring.  L. vernum (Spring Snowflake) grows to about 10” tall and blooms in early spring. It does not tolerate drought well.  Plant bulbs about 3” deep.

Lycoris – (Magic Lily, Spider Lily, Naked Lady – Genus Lycoris, Family Amaryllidaceae)

Lycoris foliage comes up in the fall and lasts until late spring or early summer.  In mid to late summer “like magic” the flower spikes emerge and grow rapidly to a height of 18” – 24” topped with 5-8 flowers. L. squamigera (Naked Lady or Magic Lily) is the most commonly seen and it has lily shaped, lilac rose red flowers.  L. sanquinea has lily shaped red flowers.  L. radiata (Spider Lily) has very thin red petals and L. aurea has yellow spider like flowers.  Plant Lycoris bulbs 5-6” deep.

Muscari – (Grape Hyacinth – Genus Muscari, Family Liliaceae)

Muscari comes up readily from seed so it can quickly naturalize an area.  It prefers sun but will tolerate some shade.  The foliage is blue/green and grass like, the flower spikes have tightly packed purple or blue flowers. Muscari grows to about 12” tall and should be planted about 2” deep.

Ranunculus – (Buttercup – Genus Ranunculus, Family Ranunculaceae)

Like anemones, these should be considered annuals and must have excellent soil drainage.  Most often seen are the Tecolote Hybrids which may produce single or double flowers in white, pink, yellow or orange. Probably best planted in January also at a depth of 1”- 2”. 

Scilla – (Squill – Genus Scilla, Family Liliaceae)

Scilla is a good plant for naturalizing in the woodland garden but it will tolerate full sun with sufficient moisture.  It produces 8” spikes of purple, blue or white flowers depending of the specie in early spring.  Plant Scilla about 3” deep.

The single most mportant thing to remember about bulbs… Don’t cut the foliage off until it yellows naturally or it cannot strengthen the bulb to bloom next year.

Last month’s question was…

Let’s assume you have ½ acre of land.  If you get 1” of rain on it, how many gallons of water would that be?

 

The correct answer is about 13,577 gallons and we had several people get it right. 

 

Let’s try this for December…Once upon a time, back in the 1820’s, this dude named Joel was trekking through Mexico and he found a weed he liked.  He brought it back to the U.S. and it has been found growing wild in Shelby County.  Any idea what it is?

 

The contest ends on December 15th.  Drop by either store to enter or you can email your entry to

questions@danwestonline.com. One winner, selected from all correct entries, will receive a $25 Dan West Gift Certificate.

 

Thanks for shopping with us at Dan West.