February 2010 Newsletter©
Which Insecticide Should I Use?
Simple question! Unfortunately, the answer is not as simple. There are many factors to be considered before spraying.
First, you need to correctly identify your pest. Which bug, will make a difference when choosing a product.
Plus, the insect’s stage of life will make a difference. An insecticide might kill an exposed adult, but not kill the larval stage tunneling under the bark.
What plant is it on? Many insecticides aren’t approved for vegetables, so we’d choose a different product to spray the tomato you want to eat tomorrow, than an azalea you want long term protection for. Some plants are sensitive to some insecticides and can be damaged or killed if sprayed.
When you apply can make a difference. Some products have temperature restrictions. Some products need to be applied at a specific time of year for maximum results.
The formulation of a product matters. The same active ingredient may have one label for inside use, one for termite control and one for use on dogs, but the inert ingredients are different and that changes on what, and how, the product is used.
Are you comfortable with a synthetic or do you prefer an organic? We have a number of organic insecticides, but remember this: organic does not mean safe. Some organics are more toxic to humans and the environment than some synthetics. Pyrethrum which is made from Chrysanthemums, has an LD50 (lethal dose to kill 50% of the test animals) in rats of around 200 milligrams per kilogram of body weight. The LD50 of malathion is around 400 milligrams. So it takes about half as much pyrethrum as malathion to kill a rat. You may not care about the rat, but the ratio is the same for humans.
First, here’s a little basic info about the most often seen insecticides.
Acephate – This is a systemic insecticide. That means it is absorbed by the plant and remains in the plant tissue for up to a month. This is a good choice for sucking insects, chewing insects, caterpillars and for migratory insects like whiteflies. It is for homeowner use on ornamentals only (not vegetables). It’s available in a liquid concentrate and a wettable powder that is probably the best quick fire ant killer.
Bonide Systemic Insect Control
Surrender Fire Ant Killer
Bifenthrin – This is synthetic pyrethroid (molecularly similar to the pyrethrum from Chrysanthemums) and the most likely product that a professional applicator would use in and around your home. Liquid concentrates are for professional use, but homeowners can get a granular form for use in the yard to control nuisance pests like fleas and ants. It is virtually insoluble in water, so it persists well in the soil for extended control and is safe for use around pets.
Hi-Yield Bug Blaster
Boric Acid – Most often seen as a powder for ant and roach control. Works best when mixed with a touch of flour so it’s ingested, but roaches that track through it usually ingest it when they clean themselves.
Bonide Boric Acid
Carbaryl – This is a good all purpose insecticide approved for use on ornamentals, vegetable and for use on dogs for fleas. It works well on chewing insects, not as well on sucking insects that only penetrate small amounts of tissue. It is available in a liquid concentrate and as a 5% or 10% dust. Not all formulations are approved for all uses, so check the label.
Fertilome Carbaryl
Diatomaceous Earth – This is the powdered skeletons of microscopic sea creatures called diatoms. It looks and feels like powder but to an insect it’s like slivers of glass. The powder attaches to the insect and it absorbs the moisture out of the insect. It also kills slugs. It must be reapplied if it gets wet. Very safe to use.
Natural Guard Crawling insect Control
Halofenozide – This is a granular product used for season long control of grubs, cutworms, sod webworms and armyworms in the turf. It works by disrupting the larva’s ability to molt its skin.
Hi-Yield Kill-A-Grub
Imidacloprid - This is a systemic insecticide. It is absorbed by the plant and remains in the plant tissue for up to a year. The length of control varies by formulation. Most often it is mixed with water and poured close to the trunk of a tree or shrub and root absorbed. It offers excellent control for sucking insects and borers, but has little, if any, effect on caterpillars. It’s available as a concentrate, an over-the-top spray, in combination with fungicides and in a granular form for season-long grub control.
Hi-Yield Grub Free Zone
Insecticidal Soap – This is an organic contact insecticide. It has no residual and must contact the insect so thorough coverage is essential. It works best on soft bodied insects such as aphids and mealybugs, not very well on caterpillars and is virtually harmless to adult beneficial insects like ladybugs. It may cause foliage to burn, especially with repeat applications and in intense sunlight, so use with caution.
Natural Guard Insecticidal Soap
Malathion – This is a good, all purpose insecticide for ornamentals, many vegetables and nuisance pests. It is short lived in the environment with a half life of about 36 hours. This is good for vegetables that are near harvest. It would be perfect if only it didn’t smell like a dead cat.
Hi-Yield 55% Malathion
Neem Oil – This is an organic insecticide made from an extract of the neem tree (Azadirachta indica). It has several modes of action and has some miticidal and fungicidal properties. It works as an insect growth regulator, a repellent and because it’s an oil, it coats and smothers insects and insect eggs and prevents fungal spores from germinating on the foliage surface. It biodegrades rapidly in sunlight and usually requires multiple applications for acceptable control.
Fertilome Triple Action
Oil, Horticultural – These may be paraffin, petroleum or plant based like sesame, canola or jojoba. Oil sprays are very safe to use and work by smothering the insect or egg. They are good cleanup sprays for fall and early spring, plus oils help reduce water loss and give you some winter protection. They should not be used on conifers, when freezing temperatures are near or in temperatures above 90°.
Fertilome Dormant or Horticultural Oil
Permethrin – This is the most widely used synthetic. It is another pyrethroid. It works by contact or ingestion and has many formulations and uses. Concentrates are available in 38% and 10% formulations. The labels are varied so make sure you get the right product for what you need. Label uses include: ornamentals, vegetables, indoor use, on dogs for fleas, for wood boring insects and much more.
Hi Yield 38 Plus Termite, Turf and Ornamental Insect Control
Hi-Yield Garden, Pet & Livestock Insect control
Hi-Yield Indoor/Outdoor Broad Use Insecticide
Rotenone and Pyrethrins – This is a combination of two organic insecticides that work well together. Pyrethrins work quickly by paralyzing an insect, but often, many insects survive, recover and become immune. Rotenone works by stopping cellular respiration and insects don’t recover from it. This combination gives good control. It has a good vegetable label and little residual. Keep rotenone away from water features and ponds, it is very toxic to fish.
Bonide Rotenone/Pyrethrins
Spinosad – This is an organic insecticide that is derived from chemicals produced by a specific bacterium during fermentation. It is very quick acting and has very low toxicity to mammals. It works by interfering with a nicotine receptor causing tremors, paralysis and then death. Insects have a lot of this particular nicotine receptor, but mammals have very few. The liquid concentrate is labeled for fruits, vegetables, ornamentals, turf and it’s available in a granular form for fire ants.
Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar and Leafminer Spray
Bonide Captain Jacks Deadbug Brew
Thuricide – This is a bacterium – Bacillus thuringiensis. When ingested by caterpillars or mosquito larva, B.t. interferes with digestion and produces chemicals that are toxic to the insect. It works best on the larval stage of insects and is non-toxic to humans. It’s available in a liquid concentrate, in a dust form (Dipel) and has a good vegetable label for loopers, cutworms, hornworms, etc.
American Thuricide Concentrate
Fertilome Dipel Dust
Trichlorfon – This is a granular product strictly for lawns. It works rapidly on grubs, ants, ticks and other listed insects but is relatively short-lived in the soil.
Bayer 24 Hour Grub Killer Plus
Secondly, here’s a few thing to remember when spraying:
Read the label. There’s info on there you should know. Pay attention to the part about protective clothing. Look closely for a list of plants you cannot use the product on. If you are spraying edibles, look for the information about how many days before harvest the product can be used. Do not exceed label rates when mixing. The label rate will kill; more product does not make them more dead.
Do not spray if it’s windy. Keep people and pets off treated areas until they are dry. Spray close to dark and you’ll have less impact on pollinating insects. Spray only when the insect population is large enough to damage your plant (in the case of tomato hornworms, that number is one!). Spray plants thoroughly and especially coat the undersides of leaves where most insects hide. (That’s not necessary when using a systemic that is absorbed into the plant. An over-the-top application will suffice.)
Keep pesticides in their original container and I like to put the purchase date on the label. If at all possible, mix only what you need for one application. Try not to store diluted spray.
I hope that you never need them, but here are two phone numbers you should know:
Poison Control Center (Humans) – 800-900-4044
ASPCA (Animal Health) – 800-345-4735
Thirdly, if you know the insect, here is a quick list of insects and the insecticides that are labeled for them.
Make sure you have the right formulation for the use you need…read the label.
|
INSECT |
SYNTHETIC |
ORGANIC |
|
CONCENTRATES |
ID |
|
ADELGIDS |
3 |
4 |
|
ACEPHATE |
1 |
|
ANTS |
2,8,12,14 |
15,16 |
|
CARBARYL |
2 |
|
ANTS - CARPENTER |
8 |
15 |
|
IMIDACLOPRID |
3 |
|
ANTS - FIRE |
1,8,12 |
10 |
|
INSECT SOAP |
4 |
|
APHIDS |
1,2,5,8 |
4,6,9 |
|
MALATHION |
5 |
|
BEDBUGS |
8 |
16 |
|
NEEM OIL |
6 |
|
BEES - CARPENTER |
8 |
|
|
OIL, HORTICULTURAL |
7 |
|
BEETLES |
2,8 |
6,9,10 |
|
PERMETHRIN |
8 |
|
BEETLES - BARK |
8 |
|
|
ROTENONE/PYRETHRIN |
9 |
|
BEETLES - BEAN |
8 |
9 |
|
SPINOSAD |
10 |
|
BEETLES - BLISTER |
2 |
|
|
THURICIDE |
11 |
|
BEETLES - CARPET |
8 |
16 |
|
|
|
|
BEETLES - CUCUMBER |
2,8 |
9 |
|
GRANULAR FORMS |
|
|
BEETLES - FLEA |
8 |
9 |
|
BIFENTHRIN |
12 |
|
BEETLES - GRUB (LARVAL FORM) |
3,8,13,14 |
|
|
HALOFENOZIDE |
13 |
|
BEETLES - JAPANESE |
1,2,3,5,8 |
9 |
|
IMIDACLOPRID |
3 |
|
BEETLES - LEAF |
1,3,8 |
9,10 |
|
TRICHLORFON |
14 |
|
BEETLES - PINE |
8 |
|
|
|
|
|
BEETLES - POTATO |
8 |
9,10 |
|
DUSTS |
|
|
BEETLES - TURPENTINE |
8 |
|
|
BORIC ACID |
15 |
|
BEETLES - WOOD BORING |
8 |
|
|
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH |
16 |
|
BILLBUGS |
3,12 |
|
|
DIPEL |
11 |
|
BORERS |
8 |
9,10 |
|
|
|
|
BORER - FLATHEADED |
3 |
|
|
CONCENTRATES |
ID |
|
BORER - LESSER PEACH TREE |
2 |
|
|
ACEPHATE |
1 |
|
BORER - ROUNDHEADED |
3 |
|
|
CARBARYL |
2 |
|
BUG - BOXELDER |
8 |
9 |
|
IMIDACLOPRID |
3 |
|
BUG - CHINCH |
2,8,12,14 |
|
|
INSECT SOAP |
4 |
|
BUG - HARLEQUIN |
2 |
9 |
|
MALATHION |
5 |
|
BUG - LYGUS |
8 |
9 |
|
NEEM OIL |
6 |
|
BUG - SQUASH |
8 |
9 |
|
OIL, HORTICULTURAL |
7 |
|
BUG - STINK |
2 |
9 |
|
PERMETHRIN |
8 |
|
BUG - TARNISHED PLANT |
2,5,8 |
4 |
|
ROTENONE/PYRETHRIN |
9 |
|
CATERPILLARS |
8 |
9,10,11 |
|
SPINOSAD |
10 |
|
CATERPILLARS - ARMYWORM |
1,2,8,12,14 |
10,11,13 |
|
THURICIDE |
11 |
|
CATERPILLARS - BAGWORM |
1,2,5,8 |
10,11 |
|
|
|
|
CATERPILLARS - BUDWORMS |
1,2 |
11 |
|
GRANULAR FORMS |
|
|
CATERPILLARS - CUTWORMS |
2,8,12 |
11,13 |
|
BIFENTHRIN |
12 |
|
CATERPILLARS - FRUITWORM |
2,8 |
9,10,11 |
|
HALOFENOZIDE |
13 |
|
CATERPILLARS - HORNWORM |
1,8 |
11 |
|
IMIDACLOPRID |
3 |
|
CATERPILLARS - INCHWORM |
8 |
11 |
|
TRICHLORFON |
14 |
|
CATERPILLARS - LOOPERS |
1,8 |
4,10,11 |
|
|
|
|
CATERPILLARS - TENT |
1,2,5,8 |
4,10,11 |
|
DUSTS |
|
|
CATERPILLARS - WEBWORM |
1,2,8,12 |
9,10,11,13,14 |
|
BORIC ACID |
15 |
|
CENTIPEDES |
8,12 |
16 |
|
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH |
16 |
|
CHAFERS |
2,3,8 |
|
|
DIPEL |
11 |
|
CHIGGERS |
8 |
|
|
|
|
|
CICADAS |
8 |
|
|
CONCENTRATES |
ID |
|
COCKROACHES |
8 |
15,16 |
|
ACEPHATE |
1 |
|
CRICKETS |
8 |
16 |
|
CARBARYL |
2 |
|
CRICKET - MOLE |
8,12,14 |
|
|
IMIDACLOPRID |
3 |
|
CURCULIO - PLUM |
2,5,8 |
4 |
|
INSECT SOAP |
4 |
|
EARWIGS |
8 |
4,16 |
|
MALATHION |
5 |
|
FIREBRATS |
8 |
|
|
NEEM OIL |
6 |
|
FLEAS |
8,12 |
10,15,16 |
|
OIL, HORTICULTURAL |
7 |
|
FLEAHOPPERS |
1 |
9 |
|
PERMETHRIN |
8 |
|
FLIES |
8 |
|
|
ROTENONE/PYRETHRIN |
9 |
|
GNATS |
8 |
4 |
|
SPINOSAD |
10 |
|
GRASSHOPPERS |
1,2,8 |
4,10,16 |
|
THURICIDE |
11 |
|
HORNETS |
8 |
|
|
|
|
|
LACEBUG |
1,3,5,8 |
4 |
|
GRANULAR FORMS |
|
|
LEAFMINERS |
1,2,3,5,8 |
4,10 |
|
BIFENTHRIN |
12 |
|
LEAFHOPPERS |
2,3,5,8,12 |
4,6,9 |
|
HALOFENOZIDE |
13 |
|
LEAFROLLER |
1,2,5,8 |
9,10,11 |
|
IMIDACLOPRID |
3 |
|
LEAFTIER |
1,8 |
9 |
|
TRICHLORFON |
14 |
|
LICE |
8 |
|
|
|
|
|
MAGGOT - APPLE |
2 |
4 |
|
DUSTS |
|
|
MAGGOT - BLUEBERRY |
|
9 |
|
BORIC ACID |
15 |
|
MEALYBUGS |
1,2,3,5,8,12 |
4 |
|
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH |
16 |
|
MIDGES |
1 |
10 |
|
DIPEL |
11 |
|
MILLIPEDES |
8,12 |
4,16 |
|
|
|
|
MITES |
1,5,8 |
4,6,9 |
|
CONCENTRATES |
ID |
|
MITES - SPIDER |
1,5,8 |
4,10 |
|
ACEPHATE |
1 |
|
MOSQUITOES |
8 |
11 |
|
CARBARYL |
2 |
|
MOTHS |
1,2,5,8 |
10,11 |
|
IMIDACLOPRID |
3 |
|
MOTHS - PINE TIP |
1,3,8 |
4 |
|
INSECT SOAP |
4 |
|
PSYLLIDS |
1,3,8 |
4 |
|
MALATHION |
5 |
|
ROOTWORM |
|
9 |
|
NEEM OIL |
6 |
|
SAWFLIES |
1,3 |
4,6,9,10 |
|
OIL, HORTICULTURAL |
7 |
|
SCALE |
1,2,3,5,7,8 |
4,6 |
|
PERMETHRIN |
8 |
|
SCALE - CRAWLERS |
1,2,3,5,8 |
|
|
ROTENONE/PYRETHRIN |
9 |
|
SCORPIONS |
8,14 |
|
|
SPINOSAD |
10 |
|
SILVERFISH |
8 |
15,16 |
|
THURICIDE |
11 |
|
SOWBUG (PILLBUG, ROLY POLY) |
8,12 |
|
|
|
|
|
SPIDERS |
8 |
|
|
GRANULAR FORMS |
|
|
SPITTLEBUG |
1,8 |
|
|
BIFENTHRIN |
12 |
|
SPRINGTAILS |
2 |
4 |
|
HALOFENOZIDE |
13 |
|
TERMITES |
8 |
15 |
|
IMIDACLOPRID |
3 |
|
THRIPS |
1,3,5,8 |
4,9,10 |
|
TRICHLORFON |
14 |
|
TICKS |
8,14 |
|
|
|
|
|
WASPS |
8 |
|
|
DUSTS |
|
|
WATERBUGS |
8 |
15 |
|
BORIC ACID |
15 |
|
WEEVILS |
1,3,8,12 |
4,6,9 |
|
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH |
16 |
|
WHITEFLIES |
1,3,5,8 |
4,9 |
|
DIPEL |
11 |
The above information came directly from labels of products sold at Dan West Garden Center.
If you aren’t sure of the problem, come see us at Dan West. Bring us a sample of the bug and a list of the insecticides you have on hand. You may have what you need, but if not, we’ll get you the right solution.
To Do List :
February is pre-emerge month. Apply around the end of the month to stop crabgrass and spring germinating weeds. You can use Hi-Yield Weed Stopper with Dimension on your lawn and flower beds.
It’s time to spray roses, fruit trees, cane fruit and any deciduous plant prone to leaf disease with lime sulfur.
Spray broadleaf evergreens with a horticultural oil spray to kill over-wintering insects and insect eggs.
Apply zinc sulfate around pecans to prevent rosette (black kernels).
Spray Image to kill annual bluegrass and many other weeds in your lawn.
If you haven’t, prune your monkey grass.
Trim summer flowering shrubs (crape myrtles, althea) if you need to.
Last month’s true or false challenge was too easy. Everyone that answered, answered correctly.
January is a good month to put down mulch made from December’s Christmas trees.
It is false. Christmas tree mulch needs at least 6 months of composting before it is safe to use.
This is February’s quiz. What insect is this?
The contest ends on February 15th. Drop by either store to enter or you can email your entry to
questions@danwestonline.com.. One winner, selected from all correct entries, will receive a $25 Dan West Gift Certificate.
Thanks for shopping with us at Dan West.