Dan West Garden Center

November/December 2006 Newsletter

Welcome back class.  Before we get started, I hope last month's ramblings about pruning were helpful.  Every month we get a small percentage of emails returned as non-deliverable.  Last month, the percentage was unusually high, so if you did not receive the October newsletter and would like a copy, email us and I will forward a copy to you.

Mulch...the upside.  It helps moderate moisture loss during dry periods.  It helps moderate the soil temperature during periods of excessive heat or cold.  It helps control weed seed germination for those weeds that need soil and sunlight to germinate.  It looks nice.

Now... the downside.  It prevents soil from drying during periods of excessive moisture which can lead to drowning, root rot or deficiencies in calcium or iron.  Organic mulches will decompose forming a layer of very fine particles on the soil surface that further slows drying and air movement.  If allowed to touch stems and crowns organic mulches may promote fungal problems as it decomposes.  If used around plants that are prone to leaf diseases, it harbors the disease when diseased leave litter falls into it.  It speeds weed seed germination for those species that need to be covered to germinate.

"So it stops some weeds and causes others?"

That's right.  Suppose you start with bare ground.  If you cover it with two inches of mulch, weed seed that need to be exposed to sunlight won't germinate.  Many weed seedlings are just not strong enough to push through the mulch to get to sun and any new seed, that needs soil contact, may not make it to the ground to germinate.  However, some seed are just laying there on top of the ground (some for many years) waiting to be covered to germinate.  Nutgrass is a classic example.  Nutgrass seed is everywhere.  If I had a dollar for every time I've heard a homeowner blame the mulch company for bringing them nutgrass, I could be swaying in a hammock in the South Pacific...ON MY OWN ISLAND!  There may be a few nutgrass seed in the mulch (because remember...they are everywhere!), but most of them were laying there on the soil surface just waiting to give you grief! 

Let's talk a little bit about types of mulch and then a little bit about holiday plant care.

Pine straw  -  This is my personal preference.  It looks good and it's easy to put down.  It is slightly acidic, but in Memphis most foundation plants we use prefer acidic soil and those that don't should be limed anyway which counteracts the acidity. Expect to replace/refresh it every other year.

Pine bark  -  This is a popular mulch primarily because it's cheap.  It's available shredded, as mini chips or nuggets.  Shredded stays in place the best in heavy rains.  Pine bark has a significant amount of calcium in it and may raise your pH over time.  Expect about 2 seasons before it needs to be replaced.

Hardwood - Shredded hardwood lasts longer than pine and is more economical in the long run.  The most often seen problem with hardwood mulch is when it is purchased from bulk suppliers.  Quite often, it has not aged enough.  If it is still decomposing,  it will take the nitrogen out of the soil and starve your plants.  You may also notice that water runoff is black.  That's tannic acid and it will significantly lower your pH.  AND... in warm weather it can vaporize and cause a bleaching effect on tender foliage. Expect about 3 years per application.  Hardwood is also available stained black or red.

Cypress  -  More expensive initially, but lasts longer than hardwood, so it's probably the most economical wood mulch.  It matures to a gray color instead of brown, so it's not as popular as hardwood.  Expect 3-5 years per application.

Cedar and Eucalyptus  -  Both of these mulches have some insect repelling qualities but they are a little pricey and not dependably available.

Leaves  - Not a bad mulch and the price is right... free!  I just wait for the neighbors to rake and bag, then make a trip through the neighborhood picking out the ones that aren't wet and heavy. It needs to be replaced yearly.

Rock, Gravel  -  Lots of choices here with lava rock (black or red), river rock, pea gravel, marble chips ( Yuk!... pardon the editorial comment) and many types of decorative gravel.  Not the best at preventing weeds, so I'd use landscape fabric under any rock mulch.  It never has to be replaced, but it's not the easiest to work with if you're planting annuals each year.  Rock mulches absorb heat well, so they are beneficial around marginally hardy plants.

Rubber (recycled tires)  - A little pricey initially, but probably will last 20 years or so.  Its great for playgrounds or if you want your house to look like a McDonalds. (That's not an editorial comment, that's just the truth!)

Whichever mulch you choose, here are a few basic things to remember...2" depth is enough.  Whenever you feel the need to add or re-mulch, rake everything out...back to soil, before adding fresh mulch.  Save the stuff you rake out, use it to plant with, but roots are at the surface of the soil because that's where they need to be, don't allow years and years of decomposed stuff to build up on top of the roots.  Don't allow mulch to touch stems, rhizomes or crowns except in winter.  Don't allow mulch (or leaves) to accumulate in the center of multi stemmed plants.

"Excuse me, what about termites?  Which mulch is the best?"

Rock. 

Any mulch that contains cellulose is fair game for termites, BUT in reality we seldom see termites IN mulch.  We see termites in wood siding where mulch is piled up against it, but not in the mulch. 

Now, a little about preserving holiday plants and greens...

Cut Christmas trees  -  When you leave Dan West with your tree tied to the top of your car, drive slowly, take back roads.  Trees can lose a significant amount of moisture if you are zipping along at 50 MPH.  Get a fresh cut on the trunk and get it in water as quickly as possible.  The longer it's inside, the drier it will get, so keep it in a bucket of water, outside, in the shade, spray it daily with water, until you just can't wait any longer.  Spray it thoroughly with an anti-desiccant like Cloud Cover, or even a dormant oil spray, to help reduce water loss through the foliage.  If it stops taking in water after you've got it decorated, try drilling a few holes into the trunk, below the water line, to expose fresh wood.  Lights make it dry quicker, so turn them off when you can.

Live trees  - Cannot be inside more than 3 days.  Each additional day significantly decreases it's chance of survival.  It's warm in your house (not my house, because my wife has the thermostat set at 58), it's Spring to the plant and it starts coming out of dormancy.  It will look fine... until May or June when it suddenly dies.  Actually it started dying earlier; you just didn't know it yet.  Also remember that Spruce and Fir don't grow here naturally, so pick a variety of tree that is likely to survive. 

Garland and wreaths  - Spray them with Cloud Cover also to prevent water loss.  Avoid placing fresh greenery in direct sunlight or on a mantle if you use the fireplace often.

Poinsettias - Keep them in a bright light location, away from cold and drafts and keep them moist but not wet.  Use caution watering if it's wrapped with a non draining decorative cover.

Drop by and visit our Christmas shop.  We still have a great selection of QUALITY artificial Christmas trees, fresh wreaths, garland and rockways.

All of us here at Dan West Garden Center wish you and yours the happiest of holiday seasons.

DAN WEST GARDEN CENTERS

4763 POPLAR            12061 HWY 64

MEMPHIS, TN 38117    EADS, TN 38028

901-767-6743            901-867-2283

KENNETH MABRY - MANAGER          JIM CROWDER - MANAGER